Dec 1, 2015 Opua, New Zealand

Just a brief update. We had a great passage. I just posted the blog entries that I thought were being posted while underway, but weren't. Ooops. We are enjoying reuniting with Kiwi and cruising friends here in Opua. The kids are having a blast playing with the kids from Fluenta, Honey, Field Trip and meeting some new friends. Gary has been busy with boat projects and I have been busy opening the bank account, buying food and trying to get kids to do schoolwork.

Cheers from NZ,
Julie

Nov 23-28, 2015 New Caledonia to New Zealand

Nov 23, 2015 New Caledonia to New Zealand

Two days ago we left Noumea on our way to Iles des Pins. We didn’t go far before we turned around and grabbed a mooring off Ile de Maitre. The wind was directly on the nose, blowing about 25 knots, with lumpy seas. Motoring full speed we were only going 2.8 knots. We had been warned that the normal SE trade winds make it difficult to get to Iles des Pins, but Gary didn’t believe it would be that bad. Anyways we had a nice afternoon at Ile de Maitre.

The following morning, yesterday, we headed out for New Zealand. We left first thing in the morning to be ahead of the building trade winds and cleared the pass with no issues. We had nice ESE-SE winds blowing about 10-15 knots, which meant we had to sail upwind. We sailed about 50 degrees off the wind which made things comfortable below. Now we just have to wait for the wind to shift left, which it is supposed to do in a day or two.

I’m happy to report that no one has been sick and everyone is in good spirits. We have 700 miles to go, or about 5 days, until we reach Opua.

Fair winds and calm seas,

Julie

Nov 24, 2015 New Caledonia to New Zealand

The last 24 hours we have been sailing nicely about 45 degrees off the breeze in 8-18 knots of ESE wind, doing about 6.5-8 knots. This morning the wind has lightened to about 5-10 knots from the east and is supposed to stay this way for a day or 2. So for the first time since we left New Zealand last year, we unlashed the first reef in the main, and are sailing with a full main and genoa. The seas have been calm making for a pleasant sail.

Everyone is doing well, and we are eating plenty. Last night Gigi made homemade tortillas for our chicken and bean tacos. She has also baked chocolate chip cookies. We have 575 miles to go, or about 4 days, until we reach Opua.

Fair winds and calm seas,

Julie

Nov 25, 2015 New Caledonia to New Zealand

Some you may be wondering to yourself, weren’t they planning to go to Australia this year? We were, but we changed our plans. Actually the Australian government helped change our plans. The Aussies have a lot of regulations, all of which include onerous fees. I would love to cruise the Great Barrier Reef and sail in Sydney, but the cost was too steep.

Any foreign boat cruising in Australia is charged $400 to enter, $300 per bag of garbage or food that biosecurity will destroy, plus the cost of visas for 4 people is over $1000. Then because Nirvana is made of wood, she would most likely have to be fumigated (about $2000), possibly hauled out, plus anything else the officials decide needs to be done. We would need to install a head macerator pump on the holding tank and consistently use it, as they do spot checks in the Great Barrier Reef area. Then the minute we list her for sale we would have to pay duty/GST of 17.5% of the value of the boat, which would import her into Australia, even if the boat doesn’t sell in Australia or she sells to a foreigner.

New Zealand doesn’t charge anything to enter the country and you only have to pay duty/GST if you sell the boat to a New Zealander. Plus New Zealand is a wonderful place to visit, so back we go. We are looking forward to sailing to some of the areas we missed last year, like Great Barrier Island and the Coromandel Peninsula, and spending more time in places we really enjoyed, like Whangaroa, the Poor Knights, and Auckland.

Last night we sailed so close to Norfolk Island it felt like we could reach out and touch it. We debated back and forth whether to stop or not. Norfolk is a territory of Australia and we weren’t sure what might be required of us stopping there. We knew for sure that you are supposed to have a visa for Australia before you stop, but we also know that yachts frequently stop if they have boat or medical issues. We figured at best they would charge us $50 a head for a short-term visa, which would be fine, but at worst biosecurity would take all our food and we would have to go through a more rigorous visa process, and other possible fees. At most we would spend 2-3 days, so ultimately we decided to skip the stop at Norfolk Island based on a real or perceived view of Aussie regulations. It really is too bad that the Australians are so unfriendly to yacht.

Yesterday we were sailing nicely on a close reach going 6-7 knots. This morning we have about 5 knots of breeze and are not making such good progress. We probably will motor most of today as the wind is supposed to fill in this evening. We are past the half way mark with only 420 miles to go, about 3 days, until we reach Opua, can’t wait.

Fair winds and calm seas,

Julie

Nov 26, 2015 New Caledonia to New Zealand

Happy Thanksgiving! We plan on celebrating on board Nirvana with a pork roast, cranberry sauce, veggies and Gigi’s apple pie. We are eating really well. Actually we are eating a lot, as I provisioned for the passage plus 4 days at Iles des Pins, so we have too much fresh food and we are trying to eat it all before we get to New Zealand and they confiscate it all.

Yesterday we motored for about 6 hours, then the wind came up nicely and we have been going 7+ knots for the last 16 hours. We are still sailing with an apparent of 45-60 degrees, but today the wind is forecast to shift more to the north. We have about 260 miles to go.

Fair winds and calm seas,

Julie

Nov 27, 2015 New Caledonia to New Zealand

We are off North Cape right now, so only 70 miles to go to Opua. Everyone is excited to see New Zealand and ready to get to land. The wind has finally gone north of east, plus as we round the cape we will be bearing off to follow the coast south. We are sailing beautifully on a broad reach doing 8 knots.

I have spent the entire day cooking to try to use up the last of our fresh food, dry beans and other random items they will confiscate. I have also cleaned out the cupboards and fridge, I don’t want to give biosecurity any reasons to search further.

It has been a good passage and tomorrow we will be on land.

Fair winds and calm seas,

Julie

Nov 21, 2015 New Caledonia

We are leaving Noumea right now and heading for Iles des Pins. We plan to spend 1-2 days there then sail to New Zealand. I just finished provisioning and had to share some photos from the market and patisserie. Yum. Also Dario is in one of the market photos.

Fair winds and calm seas,

Julie

Dario (our new crew) in the market

Nov 19, 2015 New Caledonia

After a few days in Noumea, we rented a car to explore the countryside. We decided to head south to the Riviere Bleu Park. We found it surprisingly dry, desert-like terrain and the river was low on water as it has been extra dry due to the El Nino. It was also really hot, 36C outside, so we only did a few short hikes and then went for a swim in the river.

Gigi climbing the vines on giant houp trees.

The following day the kids and I visited the Tjibaou Cultural Center. The architecture of the museum is spectacular, it was designed to represent modernized cases (meeting houses). The museum was filled with art from around the region. Along the outside walking path there was a description of the origin of the Kanaky people represented in artwork.

An old case and the modern cases in the background.

 

There was a definite theme of statues with larger than normal phallic symbols, but this guy was definitely the most extreme.

We rented a car another day and went north to Boulouparis. The beach and region was extremely dry, as you can see in the photo, but we enjoyed a nice picnic at the beach. 

 After too many days in the city we pushed off for an overnight stay at Signal Island, one of the many marine reserve islands near Noumea. As soon as we got anchored JD and I jumped in for some snorkeling. The reef was in excellent shape, but we were most amazed by the number of fish, including many big eating fish, and all the turtles. In the morning we moved over to the Dumbea pass so Gary could get in a little surfing, then back to Signal Island for more snorkeling.

Nirvana with La Grande Terre in the background

We headed back into Noumea so JD could be in contact with his family. After a few days in New Caledonia his mother, who is in Toronto, had a stroke. A few days after her stroke it became apparent that he needed to return home to help her. So sadly we said good bye to JD, and hope that his mother's recovery is swift. With the departure of JD, we needed to find ourselves crew for the passage to New Zealand, so we have spent a few days asking around and I think we have someone lined up. It makes the 900 mile passage much easier with another adult to help with watches.

We have really enjoyed the French food and wine. Every morning Gary goes to the most delicious boulangerie I have ever been to. They have so many different pastries, tarts, cakes, breads, … it is impossible to decide. We had a delicious seafood dinner at a French/local style restaurant. As the waiter poured the wine he asked if Gigi wanted any. She was so surprised, but she declined, although it made her feel so grown up.

Last night we celebrated my birthday. Just before dinner the fresh water pump died, so Gary had to replace it, then he made a yummy shrimp dinner and Gigi made me a delicious, albeit ugly, cake. The fun of boat maintenance, you never know when some essential item decides to stop functioning. JD gave me a headlamp, Gary gave me a cute French bikini, Axel gave me beautiful spiral shell earrings, and Gigi hand-sewed a gorgeous pareo (sarong) for me.

We are now anchored in Baie des Citrons with a few other boats, especially Javelot, that has 3 boys on board, so Axel is really happy. We are preparing to leave New Caledonia for New Zealand, we hopefully will have new crew onboard tomorrow, but if not, we will stay a few more days to find someone.

Cheers,

Julie

Nov 11, 2015 Noumea, New Caledonia

We arrived 2 days ago in Noumea after an easy passage from Vanuatu. We were all extremely happy that the autopilot was finally working after 3 months of issues. It took us about 1.5 months to order and get the parts we needed from America to Vanuatu.

We caught lots of fish along the way. We caught 2 mahimahi, 3 tuna and almost landed a king fish. With all that fish, plus the amazing beef from Vanuatu, we have been eating like kings. When we arrived in New Caledonia we had a visit from biosecurity and they took the remaining fruits and veggies we had (which we expected), but they also took all meat other than beef, such as our salami and chicken sausage, they took popcorn, eggs, seeds, … It was a very extensive list, and many of the other yachties said they hardly had anything taken. Not sure why we got so lucky. Good thing the markets are filled with amazing French food, so we are fattening up on brie and baguettes.

We are in the Port Moselle marina, and happy to be on a dock. It is nice that everyone can just come and go as they want. There is a carnival across the street so Axel and Gigi have been able to explore that without us. JD said yesterday he was walking by and saw Axel bouncing like a crazy man on the trampoline. Axel loves the freedom of being able to do something like that on his own, with his own money.

So far we haven't seen much, but tomorrow we plan to rent a car and explore the interior of the island.

Cheers,

Julie

Bay of Prony and the famous pine trees of New Caledonia. We anchored here on arrival into New Caledonia then transited the rest of the way into Noumea the next day.

Noumea from the sea

Noumea harbor from the boat

Oct 31 - Nov 6, 2015 Port Vila

This last week in Vanuatu has flown by. We started by celebrating Halloween, even though no one around us did. The kids, JD and I dressed up and went trick-or-treating by dinghy to the other cruising boats. We only found 2 Aussie and 1 British boat awake and willing to entertain us. They all had to do some serious digging for candy as none of them were expecting trick-or-treaters, but the kids were happy they got a few treats. Gigi dressed up as Coco Chanel and Axel as Captain Underpants.

After trick-or-treating, JD and I headed out on the town. Not much was happening as the whole city was getting ready for the world cup rugby match that was to be shown live starting at 2:00 am. Just before the game we went back to the boat to get Gary, but I had to bail, I had been up since 3:00 am sailing into Port Vila, but Gary who had just had a nap and JD headed ashore. The entire town woke up at 2 am, and at 5:30 am when the Kiwis had won every car horn was honking as much as possible. From the boat I could hear every time something good or bad happened in the game and could certainly hear the victory. We were all a little groggy the next day, especially JD who stayed up for everything.

We went to Mele Bay, just outside town, to do a little snorkeling. At Hideaway Island they have an underwater post office and a coral garden, they are growing new coral to repopulate the reef, although the natural reef is quite beautiful. The kids had fun swimming down and mailing their postcards.

A small circus performed at the beach bar on Sunday night that was very entertaining. Axel climbed way up on their apparatus and we thought that he was trying to join the circus. Back in Port Vila we visited the National Museum and library, after visiting most of the country we had a better understanding of all the different islands and how each has unique kastoms.

We have been eating our fill of Vanuatu beef and veal, probably the best meat in the world, plus it is cheap. We know once we hit New Caledonia the prices with be significantly higher. The fresh tomatoes, herbs and raspberries have also been consumed in massive quantities onboard.

Tomorrow we will finally leave Vanuatu and sail for New Caledonia. It is only 300 miles to the reef pass and then about 40 miles into Noumea. Everyone has thoroughly enjoyed Vanuatu, the natural wonders here continue to amaze us and the people are extremely welcoming and generous.

Calm winds and fair seas,

Julie

Gigi at the flower market in Port Vila with lotus blossoms

Trick-or-treating in the dinghy

The pumpkins the kids carved and their haul (ok not the biggest haul)

Mailing a post card at the underwater post office

 JD manning the underwater post office

Gigi in the underwater post office

The coral garden that is being cultivated by Hideaway Resort

Mt Marum Volcano by Axel and Gigi

Mt. Marum

by Axel

This was my first time backpacking, so for now it was my best time backpacking. For about the first hour and a half we hiked through the lush forest before entering the not too barren ash plain, where there were streams of ash between strips vegetation. After about 30 more minutes we reached the camp. In the middle was a bamboo hut with a palm frond roof.

We did another shorter hike to the caldera. The lava there wasn't erupting, it was more shifting around in every direction. The lava color constantly changed, mostly various reds, but sometimes a layer on the top would cool into a black lava rock, only to broken apart and melted again. We were lucky to be there on a clear day, so we could easily see the lava in the caldera. And because of clearness it didn't smell bad or choke us. There was also a new vent about 100 feet wide that opened about a year ago. On the 1,000 foot deep drop to the lava pits are lines of white quartz, which didn't match with the black sand around the rim.

We hiked back to the hut where our tent was set up. After dinner, just before we fell asleep, our crew member, JD, noticed an intense red glow coming from the volcano. Like I said at the beginning, it was my favorite backpacking trip, because it was my only backpacking trip, but I think it will also be my favorite, because it was awesome.

Hiking Mt. Marum

by Gigi

                As the dinghy pulled up to the beach I felt butterflies fluttering around in my stomach. I was nervous to go backpacking for the first time, to climb an active volcano and to look inside at the bubbling lava. Even though I'd been to an active volcano before, and trust me, that one was scary (think chunks of molten lava flying up at you every few seconds), I was still scared to spend a night sleeping in the shadow of a volcano whose glow could be seen even from the bay where our boat was anchored.

                My dad, my brother Axel, our friend J.D., two guides, John and Ruben, Cameron and Haso a scouting team for an upcoming Japanese documentary on Vanuatu, and I jumped in the back of a pickup truck that jostled along the bumpy road until we reached the trailhead. We jumped out and started along the trail with my dad, Axel, J.D. and me following John and the other's following Ruben. My backpack was full of heavy water, it was hard carrying it up the steep incline of the trail. The thick jungle, heavy packs, and steep trail slowed us all down and made us have to rest frequently. Whenever there was a gap in the trees a stunning view of the ocean and the sprawling jungle was revealed. The trail was lined with lush jungle, green everywhere you looked, and heard the loud song of the cicadas. There were tikis along the path, carved from palm tree stumps and covered in moss.

                After going down a hill, that I would later learn was the edge of the crater, the jungle opened up to an ash plane that at first looked like an asphalt airplane runway lined on either side by palm trees, ferns, grasses, and small pink flowers. We followed the ash, occasionally cutting through the bush to another runway until we reached the hut. The hut was a small house on short stilts that had a sign above the door that read 'five star motel, god bless'. We set up the tent behind the hut, ate lunch, and prepared for the exciting hike up to the rim of the caldera.

                After going along the ash plane for a while our guide led us up a dry riverbed dotted with small pools of water. From there the trail climbed up a steep ridge and the trees disappeared leaving only small scrub that eventually thinned out to small bushes scattered across grey ash. The ridge was thin, at some places only three feet across with forty foot drop offs on either side, and was only one of many that lead up the volcano, with deep valleys in between. If you turned around and looked you could see strips of dark grey ash separated by lines of trees and bushes, and an old volcano rising above it all, it's sides a blanket of green. From the top it felt as if I was a giant and if I stepped down the hills it would feel like soft moss under my feet.

                The moment I stepped close enough to see inside the caldera my jaw dropped and I was rendered speechless. The sides of the caldera were striped with white rock that contrasted with the gray-black ash that colored the rim. Thin lines of orange, pink and yellow ran in between the white, and colorful rocks broke up the darkness of the ridge. But the most amazing sight, the one that drew your eyes away from everything else was the glowing, bubbling lava at the bottom of the caldera. It looked as if it were angry and restless, shifting every which way, splashing up to splatter the sides of the pit with glowing red that quickly darkened into hard black rock. The caldera was a thousand feet deep and thousands of feet wide. There were two vents, we were looking into the big one and about a thousand feet away was a smaller vent that opened up in an eruption a year ago, and from where I was standing I could just see the red glow coming from it. It was one of the most stunning sights I had ever seen. Leaning over the rim of the caldera I could feel the heat radiating off the molten rock to warm my face and hands, I could smell the sulfur in the air and see the steam and ash rising in a dark plume into the sky.

                We walked along the thin, dangerous rim, that had a steep cliff on one side and lava on the other and got to a wide flat ash plane that lead up to another vent that was steaming so much that I could see nothing except the smoke. Here the sulfur was choking, so I could not stay on the edge very long.

                When the sun was low in the sky, it was time for us to head back, we had to have enough daylight to return to camp, so we climbed back down the ridge, through the riverbed, and back across the ash plane to the camp. Once the sun had set and we had eaten dinner, I walked out to the runway and saw the bright red glow that the lava had cast over the shadow of the mountain. It was brighter than the glow of any city, it lit up the night like a thousand red searchlights all shining from the center of the volcano.

                In the morning we packed up our tent and sleeping bags and carried the considerably lighter bags down to where the car was scheduled to meet us. But when we arrived at the base of the trail there was no one there, so after waiting for an hour we had to walk down the road and eventually, out of water, tired and aching we reached town and were able to get a ride back to our boat. The moment we got to the beach I ran into the water with my clothes and shoes on not caring that they were getting wet because it felt so good to be in the water. That night I was the most tired I had ever been and fell asleep instantly.

                The hike to the volcano was wonderfully beautiful, and standing above melted rock from the center of the earth is something that I will never forget.


Check out the video of the bubbling lava
https://youtu.be/6BOI_NHXsN8