Nov 19, 2015 New Caledonia

After a few days in Noumea, we rented a car to explore the countryside. We decided to head south to the Riviere Bleu Park. We found it surprisingly dry, desert-like terrain and the river was low on water as it has been extra dry due to the El Nino. It was also really hot, 36C outside, so we only did a few short hikes and then went for a swim in the river.

Gigi climbing the vines on giant houp trees.

The following day the kids and I visited the Tjibaou Cultural Center. The architecture of the museum is spectacular, it was designed to represent modernized cases (meeting houses). The museum was filled with art from around the region. Along the outside walking path there was a description of the origin of the Kanaky people represented in artwork.

An old case and the modern cases in the background.

 

There was a definite theme of statues with larger than normal phallic symbols, but this guy was definitely the most extreme.

We rented a car another day and went north to Boulouparis. The beach and region was extremely dry, as you can see in the photo, but we enjoyed a nice picnic at the beach. 

 After too many days in the city we pushed off for an overnight stay at Signal Island, one of the many marine reserve islands near Noumea. As soon as we got anchored JD and I jumped in for some snorkeling. The reef was in excellent shape, but we were most amazed by the number of fish, including many big eating fish, and all the turtles. In the morning we moved over to the Dumbea pass so Gary could get in a little surfing, then back to Signal Island for more snorkeling.

Nirvana with La Grande Terre in the background

We headed back into Noumea so JD could be in contact with his family. After a few days in New Caledonia his mother, who is in Toronto, had a stroke. A few days after her stroke it became apparent that he needed to return home to help her. So sadly we said good bye to JD, and hope that his mother's recovery is swift. With the departure of JD, we needed to find ourselves crew for the passage to New Zealand, so we have spent a few days asking around and I think we have someone lined up. It makes the 900 mile passage much easier with another adult to help with watches.

We have really enjoyed the French food and wine. Every morning Gary goes to the most delicious boulangerie I have ever been to. They have so many different pastries, tarts, cakes, breads, … it is impossible to decide. We had a delicious seafood dinner at a French/local style restaurant. As the waiter poured the wine he asked if Gigi wanted any. She was so surprised, but she declined, although it made her feel so grown up.

Last night we celebrated my birthday. Just before dinner the fresh water pump died, so Gary had to replace it, then he made a yummy shrimp dinner and Gigi made me a delicious, albeit ugly, cake. The fun of boat maintenance, you never know when some essential item decides to stop functioning. JD gave me a headlamp, Gary gave me a cute French bikini, Axel gave me beautiful spiral shell earrings, and Gigi hand-sewed a gorgeous pareo (sarong) for me.

We are now anchored in Baie des Citrons with a few other boats, especially Javelot, that has 3 boys on board, so Axel is really happy. We are preparing to leave New Caledonia for New Zealand, we hopefully will have new crew onboard tomorrow, but if not, we will stay a few more days to find someone.

Cheers,

Julie