7/22 update

Two days ago we had intended to go straight to Apataki, but thought we might not make the pass before dark, so we looked for another option. So we decided to pull into Toau, Anse Amyot. What a fantastic move. We took a mooring from the local pension. We met the local matron of the pension, Valentina. The snorkeling was crystal clear, with thousands of fish. The locals keep fish pens that contain enormous sea turtles, Napoleons wrasses, and sharks.
Gary and Harrison have been hunting for lobsters off the reefs, for a quite a few nights in Fakarava and Makemo. They got 1 or 2 each night, which has been a treat. But last night we traded 3 bottles of wine for 7 lobsters and 1 tuna with Valentina. Enough for 2 decadent meals. So the first night Harrison and Angela made fantastic sushi. The next night we had rumpelmousse to start with our appetizer, followed by lobster with 3 sauces, wild rice blend, jicama salad (the last of the veggies from San Diego), and Prosecco. Seems like Nirvana to me.
Now we are in Apataki. The reefs have less fish and coral, and the beaches are still coral rocks, not ground down to fine sand yet, so we are planning to head for Tahiti today. We should get there in 1.5-2 days.
Julie