Tuamoto update

We have been in the Tuamotos for a little over a week now, absolutely stunning atolls. Exactly the picture of paradise shown on all the travel brochures.
It took us exactly 3 days to sail the 500 nm from the Marquesas to the Tuamotos. We were stoked with our speed, peaking at 10.2 knots even with a reef in the main and the staysail. Only 1 little squall, in which I got completely drenched and Gigi hid under the bimini and laughed at me, but loved the excitement of it.
Our first atoll we visited was Makemo. We entered through the Arikitamiro pass, with no problems and only about 2.5 knots against us. We anchored off the main village as we arrived late afternoon. Then next morning Gary went ashore early to get fresh baguettes. Later that afternoon we motored about 6 miles to the east to a remote part of the atoll and anchored. Snorkeling was incredible. Lots of lavender colored coral, stag horn coral,… tons of colorful clams - teal, brilliant blue, reds, maroon, and speckled with multiple colors, and they clamp shut when you wave your hand over them. Who would have thought the clams were the most amazing thing to look at. Gary got scallops and slipper lobster for us to have as an appetizer. Unfortunately both were hard to get, so we didn't have many, but boy were they tasty.
The lagoon is about 25 nm, so it took us the better part of a day to traverse the lagoon, since we had to keep a vigilant look out for coral heads. We stopped off a remote motu for the night and got to explore and snorkel this site. The next morning we traversed the remained of the atoll and anchored near the Tapuhiria pass for about 6 hours to wait for the right tide to leave the pass. Unfortunately when we were ready to pull the anchor, it was wrapped on a coral head. Gary free dove 45 feet to put a rope on it, but couldn't quite get it on, so we setup the scuba gear for him and he went down and cleared it. Unfortunately by the time we got the anchor up it was dusk, so we left the pass in dwindling light, which made all of us a little more apprehensive. Fortunately the pass is well marked and there was no current.
We sailed through the night and arrived at Tehanea atoll at day break. The pass was straight forward and we anchored near the old Otoa village.
Since it was Canada Day, we made Nanaimo bars and shared some with a couple on the next boat over from Edmonton. It was a very relaxing Canada Day, I snorkeled 3 times, paddle boarded and napped.
Yesterday Gary, Gigi, Axel and I went drift snorkeling through the Otoa pass. The incoming tide nicely floated us by a wide variety of coral and multitudes of various fish. At the end of the pass, the current makes the lagoon water a little wavy and this is the area where the sharks like to hang out. Axel got a little ahead of the rest of us, so he got to this area first and got a little bit freaked out being surrounded by sharks with no other people. Fortunately they were only white and black tip reef sharks so they have no interest in people. Axel has become a proficient snorkeler and Gigi is like a fish in the water.
We seem to spend our days with boat chores, snorkeling, kayaking, island exploring and food preparation. And the food has been fantastic. Yesterday Angela and Harrison treated us to Larry's famous banana bread, made with the sweetest Marquesian bananas. I topped it off with my caramel rum sauce. Too decadent!
As tomorrow is July 4th, we plan on staying put and making burgers and coleslaw. Gigi is considering making us a key lime pie. Have a great holiday all of our American friends.
Cheers,
Julie