Sep 14-16 Erromango
We planned to just stop at Erromango for the night then sail on to
Port Vila, but we really liked it. We did a short hike along the river to the
fresh water swimming hole. Our skin still felt a little weird getting in the
water (still tingly from ciguatera), but it was really nice to swim and get
clean.
David from the Dillon's Bay Yacht Club took us to see his
ancestor's skull cave. It was in the cliff above a beautiful sand beach. There
were actually 2 caves, one at ground level and one we had to climb to. In the
lower cave you could see the remnants of a whole human body laid out on a large
stone. In the upper cave there were 5 skulls, the main chief and 2 of his
wives, and a lower chief and his wife. The chiefs would have died naturally,
but the wives were killed to be with their husbands.
Action Aid Australia and the people of Dillon's Bay were hosting a
women's forum with ladies from all the villages on the island and all their
chiefs. It was fascinating listening to the speeches and getting an insight
into the issues that affect these villages, even though everything was in
Bislama. There were only 3 white attendants, me, the AAA lady, Sonia, and Russ from
Peace Corp. I had some great discussions with each of them and Jocelyn, who
lives on the island and has been active in preventing domestic violence for
years. I hadn't realized how much I had missed stimulating conversations, not
just talking about where to find food and the best diving.
Men making lunch at the women's forum (not a common sight)
Rock where a whole body is lying.
Sep 16-22 Port Vila
It was nice to get to the main city to be able to get some variety
into our food and for fresh veggies. Unfortunately all of the fruit in the
country was destroyed in Cyclone Pam, and very little has regrown yet, so we
couldn't buy much fruit. Although local raspberries were in season, and they
were delicious.
Port Vila was a very nice city, with amazingly clean water, and
surrounded by scenic islands. The city was badly damaged from the cyclone, but
they have rebuilt incredibly quickly, but every so often you see evidence of
the destruction. We were shocked at how many boats were washed up on the
various shores.
We enjoyed all the big city had to offer, fine patiseries, big
grocery stores, laundry, shopping, movie theater, restaurants, and of course
lots of ice cream. Sam explored the bar scene for us and met some French girls
and Ni-Van guys.
We caught up with many friends, especially Lumbaz. The kids spent
most of their time, when not doing school, with them and they made a silly
movie about mermaids. It was sad to say goodbye as we will not see them again
in our travels.
Geni, Anara, Danni, Luna, Nils and Noa from Lumbaz
Sep 23 Chief Roi Mata
From Port Vila we sailed 20 miles to Havana Harbour, still on
Efate Island. We visited the home and the 2 burial sites of Chief Roi Mata,
Vanuatu's only World Heritage site. He died 400 years ago and was famous for
being the main chief of all the islands in Vanuatu and bringing peace to the
country. He implemented a clan system that integrated people from various islands
and villages around the country making then have to work together. He also told
the people that they had to marry outside their clan, this is still being
implemented today. His death is also famous, he was poisoned by the neighboring
village. When he died he was brought to a spectacular cave on Lelepa island,
then he was paraded around Efate, then he was brought to Eretoka (Hat) island
and buried for 100 days. After that time, some of his wives, his warriors, the
medicine man, and others all went to his grave, drank very strong kava so that
they were almost paralyzed, then they were all buried alive to show their
respect for him. There are at least 50 people buried with him, but some reports
say that it was as high as 300.
Petroglyphs inside the amazing cave on Lelepa Island
Image of Chief Roi Mata
Grave site where Chief Roi Mata and at least 50 of his followers were buried.
Today is Gary and my 20th wedding anniversary. It is hard to
believe that we have been married that long. I think we have given each other
the best present, this trip. Gigi just made us a key lime pie, and I will make
duck for dinner. In 2 days it will be
Gigi's 13th birthday, which is really hard to believe.
Calm winds and fair seas,
Julie
No comments:
Post a Comment