This has been a dismal week for the crew of Nirvana, fortunately
we topped it off with the most phenomenal spectacle. We were hit hard by
ciguatera. Ciguatera is caused by eating reef fish that contain ciguatoxin. The
fish get the toxin from eating an algae that grows on the reef. If there is
ciguatera in the area, typically the larger reef fish have more toxin as they
eat many of the smaller fish and accumulate the toxin. The algae tends to grow
on damaged reef and can build up quickly, thus it can affect areas that
historically have not had this algae. Based on this information, we now think
it is probably best to avoid fish in Vanuatu this year as it was recently hit
by Cyclone Pam and it is likely many of the reefs have been damaged. Hindsight
is 20/20.
The symptoms of ciguatera are quite unique and we have had most of
the common ones. We all started off by feeling tired and generally not well. The
kids got really strong leg cramps, and we all were fatigued and easily chilled.
I had a nasty headache for 4 days. As the toxin moved deeper into our bodies we
were all very itchy. Everyone had weird tingling sensations in their hands and
feet, and touching water produced a burning sensation. Stepping on the cool,
wet deck in the morning excited a tingling/burning response in our feet.
Grabbing something from the fridge made you hand feel like it had freezer burn.
Looking at what you were touching, you knew what it was supposed to feel like,
but the signals your hands sent through your nervous system were sometimes in
direct conflict with that prediction. Washing your hands caused a stinging
sensation. These sensations were odd more than really painful, probably because
they stopped quickly.
Gary caught many fish in Aneityum and we ate all the small fish
while still there, a coral trout, sweet lips and grouper. On our sail to Tanna,
Gary made fish sandwiches from the large coral trout and we also ate it for
dinner. I only ate some for dinner, as I wasn't feeling that well during the
day. That night everyone started to feel the symptoms. The kids woke up with
bad cramps in their legs. Sam was itchy all over, my headache and malaise
worsened, and Gary was tired and uncomfortable. The next 3 days were the worst,
with different people more affected at different times. After 4 days on board,
we ventured ashore to stretch our legs. The short walk up from the beach
completely winded us and we needed to stop for a rest. Apparently it was only a
couple dozen yards, but it felt like at least 100.
As the sickness is food borne, we had to watch the food that we
consumed. We have read all sorts of information, and it seems that the foods
that might trigger reoccurrences are very specific to the individual, but there
are some more common ones that everyone should avoid. The number one thing to
avoid is fish of any sort, even canned, also alcohol, caffeine, and nuts. So
for the first 5 days we ate vegetarian, then I started to introduce a little
meat. So far so good, except the chicken didn't react well with Sam. One could
say his stomach betrayed him.
Every day we got a little bit better, but small things seemed to
set certain people back. After 4 days Axel had no more symptoms, and Gigi only
had cramping legs and tingling extremities. The adults are recovering slower.
So which fish had the ciguatoxin? Gary thinks it was the grouper.
I think that they all probably had some and the buildup of the toxin reached a
critical point making us sick. We will never know for sure, but I wouldn't wish
this sickness on anyone.
The three small fish Gary caught at Aneityum.
After a eight days we finally decided we were good enough to go to
see the volcano. It had been killing Axel to be so close to an active volcano
and not go, but we had to wait until we were strong enough to walk up the side
of the volcano.
Mt. Yasur is the world's most accessible active volcano. We took a
4WD pickup truck to the volcano, Sam, Axel and Gigi got to ride in the back.
The journey reminded us of the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland; it was quite
an exciting road, if potholes and dodging branches in the back of the truck
excites you.
The edge of the volcano looks like a moonscape, very barren, lots
of rocks, a giant lava plain. From there we walked up to the rim of the
volcano. It is only 150 m, but it could have been miles to us, thanks
ciguatera. Once on the rim everyone was entranced by the volcano. The first
thing we experienced was the sound from a huge explosion of lava. The blast was
so strong, you could see the shockwaves rip through the ash out from the
crater. Sam hit the ground in protective mode, not sure what was coming at him
(ciguatera had not affected his incredible reflexes). Gary and Gigi stood
transfixed watching the shockwaves in awe. As you walked around the crater you
got a variety of vantage points to see into the boiling lava.
The sight of the boiling lava entranced you like watching a
campfire, the roar of the explosions overwhelmed you like a rock concert, the
smell made you think of rotten eggs, the taste of the ash reminded you to drink
more water, and the feel of the ground moving below your feet shook you to your
core.
From every eruption billowed sulfurous gas and plumes of ash. The
wind blew the ash around, at times completely encompassing you, coating you and
filling your eyes and ears. When the wind shifted you looked into the grumbling
dragon waiting for it to roar and spit fiery lava rocks at you. Some of the lava
rocks landed closer than a football field away from us. The eruptions
completely awed us, keeping us in heightened anticipation for the next big one.
We were mesmerized just watching the lava boil, the reverie only broken by the
huge roar followed by lava being spit into the air.
We were filled with complete awe at the power of the earth. We
were also completely incredulous at the fact that they let you get to such a
dangerous place. You can walk around the entire rim of the volcano, many places
it narrows to a body width steeply dropping off on both sides. Slip and you are
either in the caldera or down on the lava plain.
We arrived late afternoon and watched the mountain transform with
nightfall. The caldera glowed and the eruptions looked like the best fireworks
you have ever seem. Even as the lava bubbled, it was spit into the air like a
fountain.
Axel's favorite part were the massive eruptions. I think we all
have to agree with him. It was definitely an unforgettable experience. It is
incredible to watch a mountain as it is being built.
Tomorrow we are planning to sail to Erromango and stay there for
1-2 nights, then head to Port Vila, the capital of Vanuatu. We all are hoping
that the combination of the sailing and the ciguatera doesn't drain our
strength too much.
Calm winds and fair seas,
Julie
Video of Mt. Yasur erupting
Houses in the village of Port Resolution, Tanna
Guys fishing in Port Resolution
Last steep section of the road up to the volcano
Amazing photographs! What a wonderful adventure.
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