update

Since we have had limited internet, we haven't been able to update the blog. Now that we are in Taiohae the internet is much better.

After acclimatizing on the boat for a few days in Atuana on Hiva Oa, we cruised to the island of Tahuata with Shala and Scott still onboard. We spent 2 nights in Hana Moe Noe Bay where the only inhabitant is a Marquesian guy whose name no one can pronounce so he goes by Steve. Harrison and Steve bonded. Steve invited us all for a delicious BBQ on the beach, most of us did not realize it was turtle. When Gigi found out what she had eaten she decided to become a vegetarian and wouldn't speak to Gary for a day since he knew what it was and told her it was chicken. She is now eating most meat, but not all and is leery of new meats.

The bay is blessed with one of the few white sand beaches in all of the Marquesas, plus coral reef along the sides of the bay, making for great snorkeling.

 

Steve's camp set up.

 

We moved just 3 miles down the island to Hana Tefua Bay for 2 nights. Here there was excellent snorkeling until the jelly fish arrived. The village had a church built from coral rock, perfectly manicured streets with street lights and a harbor, all for about 100 inhabitants. We met Cyril, who had tattoos on half his body, he showed us his intricate carvings and gave us a big bunch of bananas.

 

 

 

Axel at peace on the boat finding Nirvana.

 

Then back to Atuona to drop Shala and Scott off at the airport, so they could go back to reality. So sad.

That gave us time to do a little laundry.

Then back to Hana Moe Noe Bay for 2 nights to get ready to sail to Oa Pou. Harrison and Steve went spear fishing in the morning, Steve caught a couple snappers and an octopus, which he cooked up for lunch for all of us. The snapper was cooked in coconut milk with banana and served in half a coconut. The octopus and chicken were served with rice on a leaf. All eaten with fingers.

A beautiful 60 nautical mile sail to Oa Pou broad reaching in 10-18 knots. Looked at a few anchorages until we decided to stop at Hakahetau. The rest looked too gnarly with big swell and/or wind gusts over 30 knots. This anchorage is looked down upon by 8 magnificent volcanic spires encompassed in clouds continually flowing past. The next day we hiked through the forest to a waterfall. It felt awesome to swim in fresh water.

Next destination, the island of Nuka Hiva, Bay of Tai Oa (or sometimes called Hakahetau), just a short 24 nautical mile sail. Again perfect sailing conditions 15-20 knots, but slightly larger seas 5-8 feet, under double reef and the stays'l.

Here there is the 3rd tallest waterfall in the world. We tried to hike to it, but you have to cross a few rivers and it had been raining, so the rivers were raging. We belayed across one of them, but the next one was way too dangerous, so we had to head back. Fortunately we did make it as far as the ancient Polynesian village. On our way back to the boat we stopped at a local family's house/restaurant and had an incredible dinner. Unfortunately the mosquitoes really liked Angela, she was suffering that night, the kids got a few bites, but the rest of us must not be that tasty.

 

Now we are in the main town, Taiohae, on Nuka Hiva, only 5 miles east of Tai Oa. But it was a rough 5 mile journey, with a couple of waves rolling all the way down the deck.

We will spend a few days here getting provisions and parts for the outboard motor. Everyone is excited to have real internet, so we will be able to catch up with people. After this we sail to the Tuamotus, about 500 miles southwest.

Cheers

Julie